Stand Tall, Shop Small for OKC: La 29 District spotlight

It was a Saturday morning trip with my mom to Grider’s Friendly Foods that I remember most about visiting SW 29th street in the mid-1970s. Located at May and 29th, the bustling area was always busy with shoppers gathering groceries for the week. And while I may not have known it at the time, Jude & Jody’s Furniture, whose iconic television commercial spouted “We love folks,” was located on the east end of 29th (as it still is today), along with the place I’d eventually get my beloved Honda Prelude, Eskridge Honda.

Stretching from May to Shields on SW 29th, the area has evolved since the 1970s and is now known as La 29, home to a diverse group of thriving Hispanic-owned small businesses. The increase in the Hispanic population in south central Oklahoma City over the past 18 years was the impetus for the district’s creation. Boundaries and efforts were organized in 2012 and SW 29th Street District Association was officially established in 2014.

I met up with La 29’s Executive Director Elizabeth Larios on a Monday morning to learn more about the area. Welcoming and oh-so-knowledgeable, I quickly realized Larios wasn’t just going to tell me about the district, she was going to show me. “You name it, it is in this district,” she said. “Restaurants, retail, bakery, car dealerships, furniture stores, beauty shops, we have it all.”

Serving as the Executive Director of La 29 since July 1, Larios volunteered for the district for six years prior to her new position. “It is easy to promote since this is where I came as a kid with my mom to do our shopping. We drove from Moore to get all we needed for the week.”

Our first stop was La Casa del Dulce, home to all things party. Bustling with activity even at 11 a.m. on a Monday, shoppers browsed the aisles filled with pinatas, Mexican candies of all kinds, snacks and more. Owned by Olga and Carlos Ruiz, the store celebrated its second anniversary in April. Originally from Western Oklahoma, Olga moved to Oklahoma City after high school graduation, met and married Carlos and when their daughter Lily was two months old, opened La Casa del Dulce. “What I love about being on 29th is that everyone helps everyone, we are a family,” added Olga. “I bring my daughter Lily to work every day and our patrons know I am not only running my business, but I am also showing her how to work hard.”

The pandemic was a challenge for the business, but Olga said even though they were closed for six weeks they never stopped serving their customers. “The Hispanic families are always celebrating, and they didn’t stop during the lock down,” she said. “We would meet people at the store to get what they needed, and that kept our doors open.”

A visit to El Potrero Western Wear was next. Ropa Vaquera (cowboy clothing), botas (boots) and traditional ceramica (pottery) are the specialty of the store owned by the Torres siblings. Their selection of unique boots is vast with everything from designer looks to superheroes to botas picudas mexicanas (Mexican pointy boots). During our visit Aurelio Torres was quick to share the love for his store, proudly posing for photos.

Our drive east on 29th led to a quick stop at Jose’s Transmission Shop on the northwest corner of SW 29th and Western. On the east side of the building is the area’s first city-sanctioned piece of public art, La 29 Mural 1 - La Historia (The History). Created by local artist Narciso Argüelles, the mural illustrates four significant time periods in Mexican history and culture including part of the Aztec history, the lowrider and cholo movement, and the iconic Frida Kahlo. More art is planned throughout the district in the coming months.

Sweet treats: La Oaxaquena Bakery & Restaurant was next on the list. Larios said Hispanic culture is known for pan dulce (sweet bread) and bolillo (large rolls) with their meals. Not to mention deserts like chocoflan, cupcakes, cookies and tres leches cake. Some of the treats that came home with me were Una concha de chocolate (a chocolate shell) and Un beso de fresa (strawberry kiss) – delicious!

As we pulled into the drive-up at Oklahoma-based business Crudoolandia, I was immediately intrigued. Crudoolandia serves food and drinks inspired by Mexican beach food, especially from Mazatlán. As we looked at the menu Larios explained that not only can you get botanas (snacks) but a variety of Micheladas y otras Bebidas (Michelada red beers and other drinks). She chose a cup of Elote en Vaso (corn in a cup.) Larios shared there are so many varieties of preparing corn that if you have it at one place, it will be totally different at another depending on what ingredients and seasonings are added. Her drink was a Chuvi Duvi--chamoy, lemon/lime juice, fresh strawberries, frozen strawberries, a rim of lucas candy and a straw of Dulce de tamarindo topped with strawberry soda. The drinks can be served with alcohol (which is given sealed) or without. On my next visit I have my eye on the Gomichela, a spicy beer cocktail with gummy candy.

The options for food are vast in La 29. Larios explained that most restaurants have things like tacos, burritos, and tortas but each is known for different specialties. “If you see a pig on the window, you know that means all things pork,” she added. La Esquina is known for its menudo, a traditional Mexican soup that’s known as a weekend meal and said to be good for hangovers. “Many restaurants only serve it on the weekends, but La Esquina has it all the time.” Chilaquiles (a dish made with tortillas and either red or green sauce), Gorditas (made with masa and stuffed with cheese, meat or other fillings), and tortas (Mexican sandwiches) are just a few of the many dishes found at restaurants and food trucks along 29th.

For our lunch spot, Larios chose Super Tortas El Chavo. Known for their Mexican sandwiches, the restaurant is named after the beloved Mexican sitcom El Chavo (The Kid) featuring the misadventures of an eight-year-old orphan living alone in a Mexican vecindad (neighborhood). “Everyone watched it growing up,” said Larios. Photographs and paper mache characters featuring the cast adorn the restaurant inside and out.

Owner Agustin Cardenas welcomed us with a smile and was quick to share that he uses only fresh ingredients in his dishes “No frozen or canned, only fresh for my customers,” he said. Cardenas also added that over 40% of his customer base is American.

Since I was a newcomer to Super Tortas El Chavo, Larios took the lead on our lunch order. We started with an Agua de Jamaica (Hibiscus Tea) and a small bowl of Sopa de Fideo (Mexican style noodle soup) which Larios said was a dish she was served anytime she was sick. “Our foods and recipes are steeped in tradition and hold memories. When I eat certain things, I am immediately reminded of time with my family and friends,” she said.

Our main course was a torta with asada (season chopped streak) topped with fresh tomato and avocado. - We also enjoyed Un Machete cerado de pastor (a long closed homemade corn tortilla with season pork inside). The portions were huge, plenty for me to take home and share with my husband and teenage son, though it was so delicious I wasn’t sure I wanted to share.

As my reintroduction to 29th street came to an end, I saw the area with a new set of eyes. The evolution and growth of La 29 is something to be celebrated and shared.

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