Ma Der Lao Kitchen: Growing Oklahoma City's culinary scene with Chef Jeff

Chef Jeff Chanchaleune in front of Ma Der Lao's art mural of his grandmother.

Chef Jeff Chanchaleune's culinary journey is not just boosting Oklahoma City’s recognition on the national scale; it’s introducing the vibrant culture and flavors of Laos to the palates of Oklahoma City residents.

Growing up immersed in the restaurant industry alongside his chef father, Jeff revealed a personal connection to Ma Der Lao – the surprise that the parking lot behind the restaurant was once his childhood home, completing a full-circle journey. After operating an American diner in Mustang working seven days a week, Jeff's parents set the stage for his culinary passion. Despite investing two and a half years in his advertising career after earning a degree from OU, Jeff opted to leave his full-time job. His journey led him to Chicago for a few months, where he worked and pursued his genuine passion: food.

Spending less than a year in Chicago, he gained experience in Japanese restaurants like Slurping Turtle, Sumi Robata and Oii Star before landing a position at Arami. In this brief yet impactful period, Jeff aimed to delve deeper into Japanese cuisine and bring diverse influences back to Oklahoma City.

Upon returning to Oklahoma, Jeff went on a mission, starting with a food truck and pop-ups to test concepts. His goal was to eventually introduce traditional Japanese ramen noodles to Oklahoma City, resulting in the opening of Goro Ramen in the Plaza District in 2015. Three years later, Gun Izakaya joined the lineup in the Paseo District, focusing on Japanese street food until COVID forced its closure.

Adapting to challenges, Jeff strategically relocated Goro Ramen to the former Gun Izakaya space in the Paseo district, accommodating both dine-in and to-go orders. This move proved pivotal in sustaining success amid the pandemic, while also leaving the Plaza district space open for something new.

Gaining recognition with Goro Ramen and securing his first James Beard nomination through Gun Izakaya, Jeff embraced the change with an opportunity to explore his roots by introducing Laotian cuisine to OKC. James Beard Awards are among the nation’s most prestigious honors recognizing leaders in the culinary and food media industries and those in the broader food systems.

“I finally felt like I had a platform, where I could go back to my roots after doing Japanese food for 22 years, it was a good time to make a change and take the risk,” Jeff said.

Chef Jeff successfully launched Ma Der Lao in the unoccupied Plaza District space, earning accolades as one of Bon Appétit's Best Restaurants of 2022, New York Times' 50 Best Restaurants in America in 2022, and James Beard semifinalist/finalist nominations in 2022, 2023, and 2024, along with recognition in USA Today's Best Restaurants in the country for 2024.

Reflecting on the journey, Jeff shared the initial uncertainties and financial struggles of Ma Der Lao's first 11 months. However, the prestigious accolades of 2022 were a turning point, tripling restaurant sales and saving it from possible closure.

Chef Jeff’s belief in his team, quality food and the city's trust propelled Ma Der Lao to success. "I knew it could happen, I believed in it, my team is passionate, I know the food is good, the city trusts me, I just have to keep doing what I’m doing," Jeff reflected.

Beyond personal success, he envisions a larger role in contributing to the growth of Oklahoma City's food scene. With national attention and accolades, he aims to represent and uplift the underrepresented Lao community. Jeff emphasized education as a tool to introduce new flavors to Oklahomans, ensuring both staff and guests are well-informed.

“My vision and goals have changed around the bigger picture of sharing my culture and my food. I really feel like I can help OKC grow. It became about the city; the food and it became about the Lao community across the nation. No Lao restaurant has ever won an award, I would be the first and it validates everything I have ever done” said Chef Jeff. 

As a returning James Beard Award semi-finalist and finalist, Jeff remains optimistic about his chances this year. “I’m hoping to bring it home this year. I have a good feeling because of what we are doing as a Lao restaurant. We’re very unique. We’re the only returning finalist. I have my fingers crossed but I won’t get my hopes up. I am still happy to know that southeast Asian restaurants and chefs are receiving recognition.”

Whether you're an Oklahoma City local or a visitor, a trip to Ma Der Lao is a must. Jeff encourages experiencing all the restaurant has to offer by bringing a group to try a variety of signature dishes like the crispy rice salad, mouthwatering fried chicken and the aromatic Lao-sausage inspired by cherished childhood memories. The restaurant proudly pushes boundaries to bring adventurous southeast Asian flavors to every table.

“Come thru and eat Lao” (Ma Der Lao) to explore the bold, bright, spicy and funky flavors that Ma Der Lao’s menu has to offer.